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Following the Craft Route
By
Jessica Sarhan
Photos Adel
Samara
Damascus
has long been renowned for its arts and
crafts. In order to highlight the city’s
rich artistic heritage, the EU-funded
Municipal Administration Modernisation (MAM)
programme has developed a dedicated
handicrafts walking route
through the Old City, taking visitors past
24 different workshops and points of
attraction related to the handicraft
industry.
“By developing a craft route
we are showing people that there is much
more to see in the Old City, which means
they will hopefully devote more time to
visiting it,” Peter Ross, urban development
team leader at the MAM programme, said.
“This will be of great advantage to the
local economy. So far, we have been very
pleased with the number of tourists making
use of the handicraft route. That said, our
development of the Old City is not just for
the benefit of visitors. It is for the local
people as well because this is a place where
people live, work and study.”
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GLASSWARE PAINTER
Sayed
Haydar, 45, has been producing
unique hand-painted glassware for
the past 27 years. He owns one of
the few workshops that employs
women. He also employs students
studying at the University of
Damascus’s Faculty
of Fine Arts to help produce
beautiful hand-decorated tea cups
and plates.
“Anyone can open a
shop or a restaurant, but to be able
to produce handmade quality
products, something that takes time
and effort, that is special,” Haydar
said. “I don’t want to let go of my
business. For me, my art comes
before money – it’s my passion. We
do not use modern machinery here,
everything is done by hand. It
requires skilled workers who have a
lot of patience as the work is so
delicate. I could get new machinery
and produce hundreds of cups an
hour, but then it would no longer be
personal. I want to preserve
tradition.” |
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SPOON MAKER
For
70 years Razaq Yahee has been
crafting individual spoons at his
small workshop. He started when he
was 10, learning the trade from his
father. In turn, he has taught his
sons. His family takes great pride
in the business. After all these
years, Yahee and his family remain
content with their trade.
“My father taught me
and I taught my sons and hopefully
they will go on to teach their
sons,” Yahee said. “I still love my
work after all these years.”` |
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NARGHILE HOSE MAKER
Mahmoud
Badeer, 50, does not hold much hope
for the future of his trade. He has
been making leather narghile hoses
for 40 years, but feels that he can
no longer compete against
mass-produced plastic hoses.
“In Egypt they
produce lots of plastic narghile
pipes, while I use natural
Syrian leather,”
Badeer said. “This is much better
for you as the leather absorbs some
of the harmful chemicals from the
tobacco, whereas plastic does not.
Despite this, my business will
eventually die out. It’s all about
machinery now. People have lost
their desire to have handmade
products. If my shop disappears,
there will be no more leather
narghile pipes left. I have been
doing this since I was a child. It’s
a tough job that requires skill, not
just anyone can do it. Even if I did
employ someone else, it would take
them at least five years to learn
the perfect technique. I have never
smoked narghile, I don’t like it. Of
course, the chef who concocts poison
still has to try the poison
sometimes, but it’s not for me. |
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KNIFE MAKER
Mohammad
Sayid, 52, has been making knives
since he was 10. He learnt the trade
from his uncle. He can remember when
there were three other shops like
his making knives, but they have all
shut down due to a lack of demand.
“Mine is the only
shop in
Damascus which
makes knives like these,” Sayid
said. “I have six sons but not one
of them wants to carry on in the
business. The work is too difficult
and it takes too long to learn how
to do it. These days, it seems that
people would rather make money
quickly than spend time learning a
trade.” |
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SANDAL AND SHOEMAKER
Deeb
Balah, also known as Abu Wissam, is
58 years old and has worked in the
shoemaking business for 25 years.
After losing his hearing at the age
of five, Balah was sent to Lebanon
by his father to learn to lip read.
He learnt his trade from his father
and one can still find Balah working
in his father’s shop today. These
days his shop in
Qaymariya Street
survives off the tourist trade.
Balah’s five children will not take
over the business.
“I love my job and I
hope it will flourish again,” he
said. “I guess the only way this
will happen is to hope that more
tourists come. I sell a pair of
natural leather sandals for SYP 400
[USD 8.70]. What could be cheaper
than that?” |
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CARPET AND KILIM REPAIRER
Mohammed
al-Nakhal, 27, started learning his
craft at the tender age of six when
his older brother would teach him
during the school holidays. Nakhal
is passionate about his
craft, but in
order to make a living he also sells
carpets and kilims. He says it is
becoming increasingly difficult to
source original materials to carry
out repairs.
“We mainly depend on
tourism to keep our business alive
so a lack of tourists is a
catastrophe for us,” he said. “I
love the colours and designs of
carpets and I love to treat them and
repair them. It feels really good to
rescue such beautiful objects and I
am proud of what I do.” |
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