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Narghile around the world
Libya
Tunisia Yemen
Libya
Tobacco would have reached this country during the first years of the
seventeenth century. Two hundred years later, a traveller described:
"In
Tripoli's
cafés, [how] the Lords were served the pipe and coffee by their slaves
who always accompanied them […] Moors smoked pipes of the Turkish type
or sometimes narghiles of the Persian form. The bey Sîdy Hamet smoked in
a pipe decorated with gold, coral, amber and silver" (from French Encyc.
du tabac).
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Last
year, at night fall, a walk around the part of the capital awash in the
orange glow of magnificent street lamps, was a constant temptation to
linger awhile in a good-natured atmosphere. Under tall palm trees, right
in the middle of a colourful crowd of young men and women, of whole
families and old men, the waiters of an open air restaurant could be
seen rushing between the crowded tables and the kitchen. After the meal,
those who ordered a narghile that was already set up at their table
would be provided with a kursy (pipe bowl, in clay or in metal,
depending on whether the narghile was an "arguila" or a "shisha") full
of apple-flavoured mu'essel. Sometimes, the waiter would alternate this
with the distribution of new live embers for burning the tobacco.
Freedom/Independence Square, located in the city centre, is where,
during the daytime, taxis for Tobruk,
Benghazi,
Cairo or Tunis wait far a full load before leaving. Their cosmopolitan
customers assemble at the coffee-house on the esplanade. There many of
them order a narghile full of their favourite tobacco, chosen from the
wide range of mu'essel brands on offer, mainly imported from
neighbouring Egypt, It is also quite usual for customers to bring their
own tobacco...
Tunisia
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Before
the come back of narghile from the Middle
East
in the seventies, the gûza, locally named "rguila", was especially
associated, at the beginning of the century, to the use consumers of
marijuana (tker(l) iyya) and hashish made of it. Today, only mu'essel is
smoked out of shîsha. For some still not clarified reason, tumbâk is not
used; the geographic limit for the use of the latter, through narghile,
seems to be nearby Libya.
A paid attention to the signboards of cafés, even the most modest,
reveals how a good many of them tempt to the specific conviviality the
pipe creates. The traditional and typical name is "Maqhä
Shîsha"(narghile café). Rather absent of small villages, narghile shows
a strong concentration in medium and big cities, as Sukra, Bêja, the
capital and others. Authorities, worried in front of this "conspicuous"
phenomenon, took dissuasive measures against it. Municipal orders were
not made public but their source of inspiration hints at different
ministries: of Health, Interior and Tourism. Café owners are called upon
not to serve any more narghile on the terraces of their houses. Its use
is only tolerated inside these last ones.
Yemen
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It is
possible to imagine a tourist who could not very well notice the pipe in
this country, simply because unlike the shîsha, very conspicuous in
coffee-houses of other cities of the Mediterranean region and the Middle
East as Tunis, Cairo, Damascus or Beyrout, its practice takes place in a
private context or away from the public glance. Besides, from a
linguistic point of view, the word "narghile" is almost not used in this
country without being unknown however. Indeed, the usual term is that of
the main widespread form, that is the elegant and traditional "medê'a".
Then, locally according to regions, one finds the "kûz" with its long
stick and the itinerant "rushba", of small dimensions. Finally, for some
years, the modern shîsha did appear in this country, not without
arousing strange hostile reactions among some who consider it as an
intruder in the Yemenite society. In brief, the practice of narghile is
wide-spread in Yemen. However, the use made of it is particular because
it overlaps another cultural custom well documented today: that of the
ritual consumption of qât. Yemen, more than any other country,
maintained very long-lived this traditional use of tobacco which, with
that of qât, shapes, for its peoples, a real life-style. Qât and
narghile have so common points and affinities that they are, in the eyes
of Yemenites, two of a kind or an ideal couple, would it be only because
of the time they dedicate to both activities.
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