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Narghile around the world
Turkey
Greece
Egypt
Turkey
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Turkey,
to which people always look at, is not any more that country where
Pierre Loti, a great amateur of narghiles, could, at the beginning of
the nineteenth century, count the latter "in myriads". Today, those
places fitted out to devote to this art (sometimes called "nargile
bars") can be listed on one's fingers, often under the questioning and
amused glance of tourists or the interested eye of some journalist about
to write a light article on them. Most of the famous cafés where the
peculiar narghile atmosphere prevailed actually disappeared: Pirinçci
(in Kuledibi); Güllü Agop Kiraathanesi (in Gedikpasa); Valide
Kiraathanesi (in Eminönü); Ligor Kiraathanesi under the Galata bridge;
and Erzurum Çayevi. The districts where the "survivors" are to be found
are those of Beyazid, Aksaray, Topkapi, Unkapani, Kasimpasa, Besiktas
and Kadiköy. In the first one, the Erenler coffee-house calls on foreign
guests to try what a signboard presents as the "mystic water pipe".
Notwithstanding, this country is now experiencing a revival of narghile,
even if the State makes every effort to lighten the Turkish society of
its heavy cultural and social Ottoman past.
Greece
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Gail Holst |
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At the
beginning of the last century, the only and last identified social use
of narghile is that performed, between the twenties and forties, by
Greek "immigrants" in Turkey.
These were at the origin of Rembetiko, a culture in conflict, in spite
of itself, with the values of the global society of that time. Here is,
below described, their daily living environment in the Piraeus harbour:
"In one of the small shops, you could have drunk a thick, sweet cup of
Turkish coffee and ordered a water pipe or narghile, which the
proprietor would lift off a shelf and light with a few coals from the
charcoal brazier.
[…]
they might take you to hear Batis playing the tiny baglama [kind of
lute] to his friends in a teké [tavern]. There, the manges would be
sitting on the floor around a charcoal brazier while a boy filled the
narghile with Turkish hashish and passed it around" (Gail Holst)
Egypt
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Smoking would have appeared in this country at the beginning of the
seventeenth century. Today, in this country more than in any other, the
narghile makes an exhibition of itself almost everywhere and in every
place. An interesting question is to know if the powerful film
production of this country, massively broadcast on the regional scale,
has been in a position to influence smoking behaviours in other
countries. In the latter, such behaviours would have been at the origin
of a revival of narghile as in Tunisia, Syria, Lebanon or Jordan.
Narghile in Egypt, under its two forms, shîsha and gûza, is indeed well
known through television programmes. In this country, its use is for
tobacco what kushary, a dish based on rice, pastas and lentils, is for
local cooking: popular, of frequent and daily consumption. The "'El-Fishâwy"
coffee-house, in the "Hân 'el-Halîly" district of Cairo, is famous for
the hundreds of daily bowls, filled with mu'essel, it prepares for its
patrons twenty four hours a day. Its existence is bound to the national
literature with such writers as the holder of a world price: Najîb
Mahfûz. This establishment would have known its highlight at the end of
the twenties and at the beginning of the thirties. However, the combined
effects of tourism on local populations, on one hand, and the fact that
it distinguishes itself by a set of services organised around narghile,
on the other hand, still seem to promise it numerous years of activity
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